In 1999, an intriguing invitation led me to explore Nagaland during the festive season of Christmas. Despite the lingering emotional aftermath of clashes between tribes in 1992, the allure of experiencing Christmas in the Northeastern state was irresistible. With a mix of trepidation and excitement, I embarked on a journey filled with the promise of adventure.
Nagaland: A Lush Gem in India’s Northeast
Nagaland, a captivating landlocked state in Northeast India, boasts lush landscapes and shares borders with Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, and Myanmar. Our chosen mode of travel was a 25-hour, 1222-kilometre train ride, offering a unique glimpse into the local lifestyle.
Quirks of a Train Journey: No Rice for the Nagas!
The absence of rice meals on the train during the journey surprised our Naga companions. Witnessing their joy at finding a vendor selling rice and curry was amusing and enlightening. This culinary discovery hinted at the cultural nuances that make Nagaland distinct.
Navigating Challenges: Bodo Insurgency and Security Checks
The shadow of the Bodo insurgency loomed over our travel, evident in the heavy presence of armed forces at railway stations. Despite the security checks and reminders of regional tensions, the resilient spirit of the Nagas shone through as they embraced the festive season with open hearts.
Dimapur: Gateway to Nagaland’s Vibrancy
Our final stop, Dimapur, unfolded as Nagaland’s largest city and commercial hub. Vibrant with the hues of poinsettias and adorned cottages, the town welcomed Christmas with open arms. The bustling energy and warm hospitality set the stage for the deeper exploration of Nagaland’s cultural richness.
Wokha Welcomes: Bamboo Houses and Cultural Delights
A 128.5-kilometer drive from Dimapur led us to Wokha, home to the Lotha-Naga tribes. Mary’s bamboo house exuded warmth and happiness, offering a glimpse into the unique Nagamese culture—a fusion of languages and laughter.
A Night to Remember: Nagaland’s Hospitality
After a day immersed in picturesque landscapes and local delicacies, the night at Mary’s home was magical. From outdoor baths to hearty meals and prayers led by Mary’s grandmother, they resonated with Nagaland’s deep spirituality and hospitality every moment.
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